Falling for the Paris of South America

Traveling overland and long-term has had two modes for me: Actually traveling while moving places in a constant pace, and settling in one place for a while. More often than not, these places of stretching my legs a bit were cities that I liked. Just like landscapes, cities can be a source of inspiration, and Buenos Aires is ranking high on this list.

Teatro Colón.
Parque Lavalle in front of Teatro Colón.
Large parts of Buenos Aires feature impressive colonial architecture.

I met wonderful people in Buenos Aires, which weren’t shy about conveying why they loved the city so much. I’ve always had the feeling that Spanish sounds a bit harsh, but not so much in Buenos Aires. One can clearly make out its peoples’ Italian heritage, and the accent sounds quite melodic and gesticulating makes for a part of it. Whenever I’d thank someone, I would be answered: “No, de nada!” With a “please-come-on” facial expression and an open-handed gesture. 

Just like everywhere in Argentina, people of Buenos Aires love to be passionate about something — football, foremost, and they love to talk about what they love (“… me encanta!”). It so was that I got to see a football match of the biggest club and one of the two large rivals of the capital, River Plate, in their and Latin America’s largest stadium, Mâs Monumental.

Fans or ‘hinchas’ of River Plate waving their flags at a match against Defenca y Justicia.
Within the national cup, only home fans are allowed at matches for security reasons.
The stadium is the largest in South America at around 84,000 seats.
Argentinians don’t miss a chance to reminisce winning the World Cup in 2022.

Apart from its two giant soccer stadiums, numerous squares and landmarks, even after a few weeks it felt like there’s always something new to see, while every neighborhood feels and looks different. In fact and historically, Buenos Aires has grown together from a number of smaller cities. Stepping from Palermo, one of the largest neighborhoods with beautiful parks into Belgrano, the atmosphere becomes a lot more tranquil and suburban, without losing its charm. Recoleta and its architecture makes one feel like one’s actually in Europe. San Telmo is one of the oldest neighborhoods with cobblestone streets, a Sunday market and antique shops. It is where I got some film developed at a very old school print shop.

With its people who always seem passionate, lovely architecture, great restaurants, small businesses rather than franchise stores, an ever-present underlying sense of taste, Sunday markets and mystical tango, city people that actually smile at you and always have time for a mate, Buenos Aires is a city hard to not fall in love with. Time seems to have been standing still, in a good way. 

Book store in El Ateneo Grand Splendid.
Street vendors in front of the former zoo and now eco park of Buenos Aires.
China Town of Buenos Aires.
Illustrious Recoleta cemetery.
Dog walker crossing one of the opulent avenues of Belgrano neighborhood.

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